tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35042697336814594982024-02-18T20:56:19.437-08:00Living and learning in Gaborone, BotswanaPhoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-69051904074423815672011-04-26T03:28:00.000-07:002011-04-26T03:29:25.968-07:00Episode 13: The Okavango Delta and the Central Kgalagadi Game Reserve<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">“Stay in your tent! There are lions in the camp!” It’s very early in the morning and most of us were awakened by that stage whisper. I think, “Oh, yeah, right. What kind of dupes do they take us for, we’re not that kind of gullible tourist. They probably do this to all the tourist groups, gives the tourists a thrill, gives the guides a laugh.” Roll eyes, roll over, go back to sleep. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">“Quick, get in the truck, we will follow them.” What if they’re not kidding?! What if I can’t get my pants on fast enough to get out of the tent and into the truck?!? Where are my shoes? How many zippers are there on this damn tent?!? Why am I running TOWARD lions?!?!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">About twelve of us managed to race to the safari truck and heave ourselves in without benefit of a ladder, and there they were, in the early morning starshine and, when possible, the headlights of the truck. The whole family we had watched yesterday evening was there: two adult females, four young lions, and one giant male lion, holding himself back in the shadows. They were as curious about us as we were about them. We found some canvas, which the guards had said had covered the camp’s meat supply on the first day, dragged into the bush where the youngest lions had apparently been playing with it. We tracked them for about a half an hour before they melted away into a landscape that even our giant safari truck couldn’t penetrate. The guard then showed us where some of the lions had rested – immediately adjacent to two students’ tent. They had thought someone was playing a fast one, brushing up against the tent like that! But no, we had heard the lions all night because they followed the road back to our camp. We could only hope that they found us as entertaining as we found them!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">That morning, for me, was the highlight of our week-long safari in the Okavango Delta and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. [I have put many links relevant to this text at the end of this blog entry.]<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">In fact, turning our attention to non-human animals was an antidote to some of the inevitable culture shock. The trip did not disappoint.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We flew Air Botswana to the Maun airport, near the world’s largest inland delta, the Okavango. We were blessed to have been prepared for the trip by <a href="http://www.fredonia.edu/biology/titus.asp">Jon Titus</a>, a Fulbright Scholar and biologist who spoke to us about the geology and ecology of Botswana and surrounding countries, with a special emphasis on the Okavango as he know that we would visit there soon after his talk.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We moved in to Audi Base Camp, into “tents” that characterize the low end of high-end Botswana tourism. Mine had two twin beds, a small dresser, a bookshelf, and electricity. We arrived early enough for five of us to walk to the airport to hire a 5-passenger airplane, which flew us low over the Delta for an hour and a half. It was the best $100 USD I have spent in Botswana. The Delta was a vast Dr. Seuss landscape with blobs that resolved themselves into hippos (so many hippos!), ostriches, giraffes. We could see the white islands of salt, whose presence and relative scarcity, remain one of the world’s great scientific puzzles. How can all that water enter the world’s larges inland delta, evaporates leaving behind tons of salts, and yet also create a gigantic freshwater ecosystem?<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">After an afternoon of napping for the students and reading for me, we had a wonderful evening meal and went to bed in our luxury tents. The next morning, the students departed for the launch point for mokoro trips. Mokoros (mekoro is the more correct plural for <a href="http://www.botswana-travel.org/transport/mokoro.html">mokoro</a>/makoro) are dug out canoes indigenous to the peoples of the Delta (many of who are not Setswana speaking). While local people use them for transportation across the shifting landscape, they also take tourists along shallow shores, to show us the landscape close-up, the opposite of the bird’s eye view from yesterday. They saw hippos and water birds very close up indeed. After establishing base camp on an island, small groups went with individual trackers, and found creatures such as elephants and even water buffalo, in addition to the ubiquitous zebras, giraffes, ostriches, and various creatures that appear to be a fugue of variation on the theme of “antelope.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The next trip was a long drive to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. We were a bit uneasy, as we had been fortunate to speak with a Fulbright scholar, <a href="http://www.kent.edu/cacm/faculty/~pcoy">Pat Coy</a>, who is here working at the <a href="http://www.namibian.com.na/index.php?id=28&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=70571&no_cache=1">Centre for San Studies.</a> He introduced us to two San UB students, who spoke with us about the challenges of all the discrimination they and their peoples have faced, and about the critical problem of the coerced removal of peoples who once lived on that land and now live in unhealthy, desperate relocation villages outside the CKGR. But the trip had been planned before we had properly educated ourselves, so we talked about our unease but also tried to make the best of it while resolving to encourage future groups to go to Chobe or some other less fraught destination for game viewing.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">After the uncomfortable trip down rutted “roads” in the back of open safari trucks (with roof, but no walls), we were glad to arrive and help establish base camp. This time the tents were tents, but we still had a sleeping cot and a bed roll, not to mention three meals a day including a magnificent evening supper complete with three courses and dessert. It was not the time of year for the best game viewing, as it was wet and there was no need for large groups of mammals to congregate. We mainly saw springbok, ostriches, and Kori bustards, though we did see one vulture (hurray) and of course on the second day we watched the lions for about 1.5 hours before dusk. It was obvious that the animals were quite accustomed to being in the presence of large vehicles full of primates; the guides insisted that even lions will not attack a group of people in a truck, because a “truck” is somehow different from “a potentially delicious gigantic slow primate” haplessly walking in the actual Kgalagadi.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The Kgalagadi is somewhat mis-named “desert” in much the same way that my home state Nebraska was once mis-named as part of the “Great American Desert.” It is no “desert” matching the American imagination with its dunes and camels. Rather, it is a dry grassland, but grassland nevertheless, and this prairie girl’s heart sang just to see the open space and so much grass, grass, grass. If only Amy Clampitt had seen the Kgalagadi, what poetry would that have begat? If only I were a poet and could tell you about it more completely. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">is much less rain in the Kgalagadi than in Nebraska, and the grass when we visited was only ankle-high in places. There were stands of acacia interrupting the grass, but mainly, it was grass. We did see one of the great, flat salt pans that annually fill with water and become otherworldly shallow but wide, so wide, “lakes,” producing the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen (in photographs taken by friends who were in the Delta when the pans had water).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">In between morning and evening game drives, there wasn’t a lot to do in the midday heat. Some tried sleeping but generally is was too hot for most of us, and while we had a few books with us, we restless Americans quickly ran out of activities. Much to my amusement, a ball of string a student had purchased to repair his shoelaces became all the rage. Can you imagine more than a dozen college students playing cat’s cradle, braiding, making friendship bracelets – all with one ball of shared white string? I did find several people who like to play cards, and learned to play euchre all over again. One of these days I will even remember how to play.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">But the night times, my friends, the night times! Have you ever seen the Milky Way so thick that you could touch it? The Southern Cross was just one of the sky’s marvels. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Taking care of necessities at night did become amusing, however. The first night, before seeing the lions, individuals would leave their tents and go five or so yards away to pee. By the last night, however, plenty of people practically peed on the tents rather than encounter any more lions!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">After breaking camp on the last day, we left reluctant to leave behind the peace but also eager to find showers and electricity. We had one last thrill, as driving away we came across a slinky black mamba sunning itself across at least 1.5 lanes of the road, bringing the number of snakes some had seen on the trip to two (I myself had missed out on the spitting cobra near the edge of camp, but I’m okay with that). The adventure concluded with our departure from the Maun airport, carried off without a hitch despite the complete lack of electricity in the town, and our arrival at and dispersion from the Gabs airport. Sadly, I may never again see a semi-wild lion 8 feet away, or reach out to touch the Milky Way. But then again, we all have much to reflect upon whether tourism works out to be a net benefit for either the average Motswana or the non-human animals, let alone the plants and other components of the ecosystems here.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">To see a film that captures our reluctance to encourage others to go to the CKGR, we recommend “<a href="http://www.anemon.gr/place.html">A Place Without People,</a>” a film about the Masai and the Serengeti in Tanzania. We saw it at the marvelous <a href="http://www.maitisong.org/pages/ditshwanelo-human-rights-film-festival-2011.php">Ditshwanelo Human Rights Film Festival</a>, and cannot recommend it more highly. <span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">The situation is Botswana is remarkably parallel. There are many different peoples who lived in the Kalahari, and the word “San” is not how they describe themselves, preferring to use their individual tribes’ names and languages, or if they must use a collective term, then often “Bushmen:” we don’t even have a proper vocabulary to talk about the situation. </span> We had definitely “consumed” the CKGR while local peoples had only recently been forcibly removed, quickly leaving many of their descendants insufficiently knowledgeable to return to the CKGR, even if they wanted to and if the Botswana government would tolerate their presence. In addition to everything else, the only primary education available in the relocation villages is in Setswana (not their native tongue; all primary education here is in Setswana even though many Batswana citizens do not speak Setswana at home). a One has to <a href="http://www.utm.edu/organizations/civilrights/Indian%20Boarding%20Schools%20biblio.htm">read</a> no further than a history of the “Indian Schools” in the 19<sup>th</sup> and 20<sup>th</sup> century U.S. to get an idea of the devastating results of such intentional and total <a href="http://www.kansaspress.ku.edu/adaedu.html">cultural obliteratio</a>n. Had we been knowledgeable in the first place, we would never have gone to the CKGR. We hope that future ACM students will be more responsible than we were! (Isn’t that the hope of every generation when it speaks to the next?)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">No one can say how long the animals we saw will survive in the midst of veterinary fences that cut off migration yet do not really stem the spread of infectious diseases, global climate change, and increased competition between humans and animals for scarce land resources. Will my student’s grandchildren even have the option of viewing innumerable hippos from the co-pilot’s side of a small plane?<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Without a doubt, the trip was one of the highlights of our brief stay in Botswana, and certainly helped us see why the nation is so justifiably proud of its magnificent natural resources. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Here is a list of most of the animals I am sure that I have seen in Botswana:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Blue Wildebeest<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Kudu<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Duiker<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Mongoose<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Hippopotamus<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Water buffalo<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Giraffe<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Cape hare<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Eland<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Elephant<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Vervet<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Waterbuck<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Zebra<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Rock hyrax (dassie)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Steenbok<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Warthog<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Ground squirrel<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Impala<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">White rhino<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Lion<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Black rhino<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Black mamba<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Water monitor<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Gemsbok<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Springbok<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Ostrich<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Sacred Ibis<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Spoonbill<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Egyptian Goose<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Great white egret<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Wood sandpiper<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Cattle egret<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Common sandpiper<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Crowned plover<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Lappetfaced vulture<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Secretary bird<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Kori bustard<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Crested francolin<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Helmeted guineafowl<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Morning dover<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Redfaced mousebird<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Laughing dove<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Swallowtail bee-eater<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Yellowbilled hornbill<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Pied crow<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Blue flycatcher<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Longtailed shrike<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Burchell’s starling<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Redbilled quela<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Paradise wydah<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Pintailed wydah</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">...and of course plenty of <i>H. sapiens sapiens</i>.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">LINKS related to the blog:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"></div><div class="MsoNormal">CKGR: <a href="http://www.wildernesstrust.com/trust/project_intro.jsp?project_id=507757">http://www.wildernesstrust.com/trust/project_intro.jsp?project_id=507757</a> and <a href="http://www.ckgrlionresearch.org/Blog/?page_id=57">http://www.ckgrlionresearch.org/Blog/?page_id=57</a> and <a href="http://www.unl.edu/rhames/courses/current/readings/suzman-corry.pdf">http://www.unl.edu/rhames/courses/current/readings/suzman-corry.pdf</a> and <a href="http://www.gazettebw.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=8576%3Aopposition-welcomes-ckgr-court-decision&catid=18%3Aheadlines&Itemid=2">http://www.gazettebw.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=8576%3Aopposition-welcomes-ckgr-court-decision&catid=18%3Aheadlines&Itemid=2</a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Kalahari: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalahari_Desert">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalahari_Desert</a> and http://www.amazon.com/Voices-San-Living-Southern-Africa/dp/0795701926<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">San Research Centre: <a href="http://www.namibian.com.na/index.php?id=28&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=70571&no_cache=1">http://www.namibian.com.na/index.php?id=28&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=70571&no_cache=1</a> and http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~db=all~content=a936392861~frm=abslink<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">A Place Without People: <a href="http://www.anemon.gr/place.html">http://www.anemon.gr/place.html</a><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Ditshwanelo (link has been down a lot lately): <a href="http://www.ditswhanelo.org.bw/">http://www.ditswhanelo.org.bw</a><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Ditshwanelo Human Rights Film Festival (2011): <a href="http://www.maitisong.org/pages/ditshwanelo-human-rights-film-festival-2011.php">http://www.maitisong.org/pages/ditshwanelo-human-rights-film-festival-2011.php</a><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Peoples of the Kalahari: <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-12300290">http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-12300290</a> and <a href="http://www.ethicaltraveler.org/2011/02/botswanas-bushmen-win-fight-for-the-right-to-water/">http://www.ethicaltraveler.org/2011/02/botswanas-bushmen-win-fight-for-the-right-to-water/</a> and http://www.voanews.com/english/news/africa/decapua-wikileaks-bushmen-21jan11-114351914.html<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Mekoro: <span style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.botswana-travel.org/transport/mokoro.html">www.botswana-travel.org/transport/<b>mokoro</b>.html</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial;">Okavango: <a href="http://anthro.fullerton.edu/Okavango/">http://anthro.fullerton.edu/Okavango/</a> and <a href="http://www.orc.ub.bw/">http://www.orc.ub.bw/</a> and <a href="http://www.wildernesstrust.com/trust/project_intro.jsp?project_id=492161">http://www.wildernesstrust.com/trust/project_intro.jsp?project_id=492161</a> and <a href="http://cires.colorado.edu/events/lectures/boyes/">http://cires.colorado.edu/events/lectures/boyes/</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial;">Use of relocation and "education" in the genocide of American Indian peoples: American Indian Higher Education Consortium: <a href="http://www.aihec.org/">http://www.aihec.org/</a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial;">http://www.utm.edu/organizations/civilrights/Indian%20Boarding%20Schools%20biblio.htm<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><span style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: black; font-family: Times; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">Center for Applied Conflict Management at Kent State:<span style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><a href="http://www.kent.edu/cacm/index.cfm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">www.</span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">kent</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.edu/cacm/index.cfm</span></a> </span><b><span style="color: #2b603c; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div>Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-87992459930298567292011-03-11T05:41:00.000-08:002011-03-11T05:41:21.620-08:00Episode 12, Better late than never?<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I realize that I have been a poor blogger this past month, having written nothing since 13 February.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Plenty has happened since then.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will restrain myself and just tell you about two:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Valentine’s Day and going “on safari” to the Okavango Delta and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. This post is about Valentine's Day, to give myself some more time to write about the safari!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Valentine’s Day<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I would have thought that a fake-o U.S. holiday would not be much in evidence here, and I would have been wrong wrong wrong.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes in my cynical moments it seems to me that every single one of the very worst aspects of U.S. consumerism have been transported directly to Gabs and then allowed to grow wild, like mint in my garden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That one mint plant looks like a good idea in the nursery, but then once it has been transplanted outside, it becomes an outrageous nuisance and you wonder what you were thinking in the first place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I often wonder if the elders of Botswana, who sacrificed so much for today’s under-30’s, ever wonder the same thing about shopping malls and fast food and cellular telephones.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I should have known that Valentine’s Day was going to be interesting just by watching the windows at the Riverwalk Mall, where there are many fashionable clothing outlets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a store called Woolworth’s (“Woolies” in South Africa) that sells both high-end groceries and fashionable preppy clothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They always have these window displays featuring mostly white people and mostly white manikins, and they are packed, absolutely packed with people who appear to be Batswana.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the beginning part of February, the manikins stripped nearly nude and sported what I can only characterize as obscene underwear intended to accentuate the human body’s various erogenous zones. I didn’t even know that there were male torso manikins that could look like that – and the male clothing was much tamer than what few scraps bedecked the females.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">By accident, I ended up going to a Valentine’s Day dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were trying to say good-bye to a Fulbright friend, and her last day in town was February 14<sup>th</sup>. So we had gathered to eat a farewell feast only to find that the only options were to attend a Valentine’s Day special dinner party somewhere, or to eat fast food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We chose the Valentine’s Day special dinner, thinking, how bad can it be?<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We chose poorly.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">First, we had to buy tickets in couples, and put our names on the tickets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This caused some anxiety later, as you will understand in a minute.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were not in couples – we had only two “couples” with us, actually.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So the rest of us cavalierly paired up and did not worry too much about what the doorman might think of our gender- and race-blind associations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we bought the tickets, we became aware of white female manikins, this time wearing even more obscene clothing (if you can call it that – or should I say wearing even less obscene clothing?). They were wearing one-piece fishnet outfits that had long sleeves and long legs, and therefore had holes for the manikin’s head, arms, and legs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And crotch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Completely crotchless.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Might as well have installed a giant blinking neon arrow pointing to the location in question.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We sat down with some trepidation, as we entered a world something like the Nightmare Before Christmas meets Valentine’s Day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were the only ones not seated at a table for 2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The décor was outrageous, over-the-top in the extreme:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>giant size champagne flutes filled with pink or red colored stones, red and pink streamers, huge table centerpieces that must have been designed by a gay man making fun of straight people as he laughed all the way to the bank.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The men were dressed in reasonably dapper suits, and the women were most often dressed in very slinky prom dress outfits in sexy black or red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the women of Botswana can rarely be described as “slinky,” at least in the income bracket that could afford the price of the tickets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So it was sort of like those adult-only renaissance festival days where women of all sizes are wearing corset-boustiers jobbies that must surely impede breathing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I myself cannot be characterized as slinky, so I have some sympathy for the awesome female confidence on display at this event. But still, it was a bit much.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I will leave out the food, which was unremarkable except that in addition to serving watered down Indian food, they also served pounded beef; women ate the Indian food and the beef; men ate the beef.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">On to the “entertainment,” which everyone except our table did appear to find entertaining, so perhaps I should remove the quotation marks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a d.j./host fellow, and several camera crews with gigantic flash lights or spots for taking pictures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To our horror, the host began by explaining the reason we had had to put our names on the tickets:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>they would be drawing the tickets out in order to award prizes to the lucky audience members written on the ticket!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What if one of us had been chosen?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am convinced that the world would have come to an end that very moment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Anyway, we weren’t chosen, not even as the lucky couple who would get to take home the fishnet lingerie that welcomed ticket-purchasers to the event.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The host would interview each couple with a wink-wink, nudge-nudge behind every word, and then the couple would win something “romantic” like a pedicure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The whole performance of gender was painful to watch, as every possible stereotype was on display, especially the insatiable uncontrollable man who literally needs sex, and the woman whose job it is to satisfy under conditions where satisfaction is literally unattainable. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">There was a Rasta singer who sang about the love of Jesus for about 7 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was this odd hip-hop or house lip syncing guy who came on stage with two women who walked around like they were auditioning for Tyra Banks while he lip synced.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Except he was a really bad lip syncer, and also there really wasn’t much to lip sync to given the dominance of the (recorded) rhythm section.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One performer’s climactic number ended with him sexy-whispering into the microphone “let’s make a baby tonight” to a spellbound audience; after he crooned that phrase, you could have heard a pin drop -- in Joburg.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Thankfully, I have blocked out any further memories of the night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Valentine’s events in the U.S. undoubtedly have just as many painful stereotypes on display -- I do not often go out to watch them. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I do know that for many us visiting from the U.S., gender relations and gender roles seem to be somehow “intensified” here compared with what we experience in the U.S..<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This perception must be wrong, or at best incomplete, as every culture has a range of norms and people who violate those norms, and we must not understand the norms here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> On the other hand, what I perceive as intensified need to fulfill certainly stereotypes about masculinity and femininity really rub me the wrong way -- they do seem sexist, and harmful to both women and men. My students and I, w</span>e wonder, what do Batswana think of our gender roles and relations?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Are the gender roles and relations in Botswana really all that different from the ones on display in the U.S. movies at the Gaborone theaters?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To what extent do we fulfill exaggerated gendered expectations?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Do they impact our health as surely as sexual norms affect the health of Botswana’s peoples?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Certainly, it is so much easier to look at someone else than it is to really see myself.<o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-88623570146620072882011-02-13T08:49:00.000-08:002011-02-13T08:49:50.812-08:00Episode 11: A glimpse of Johannesburg and Soweto<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Trying to learn anything about Johannesburg and Soweto in a single weekend is shear folly, yet it would also be irresponsible to fail to reflect on the experience. If any of you have been to “Joburg” (“Jozi”) or Soweto, or have studied these cities, please share your thoughts and suggested readings with me.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">At 10:30 on Friday morning two weeks ago, 27 of us set off for Soweto: 24 undergraduates, 1 Batswana assistant, 1 Batswana bus driver, and me. The first thing the 23 of us from ACM learned is that a 28 seat bus is too small for 22 U.S. undergraduates, let alone the 27 of us squeezed into the bus. I have some students that anyone would characterize as “petite,” and yet even they could not rest their shoulders on the back rest while sitting adjacent to anyone else. Fortunately, I am absolutely blessed with a group of traveling companions who are almost always in good humor, or willing to try to put themselves in a good humor. It would not be a good idea to try to travel from Gabs to Soweto with anyone grouchy. One would be tempted to leave them on the side of the road with only the cows for company. For future travel on buses, I plan to request 1.25 seats per ACM person. Functional air conditioning would also be a nice touch.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We crossed into South Africa at the Tlokweng border. We learned that we may never understand why it is necessary for people to walk across the border in the heat instead of getting back onto the bus to drive across the border.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The view outside the bus was pastoral - for most of the way, there is either beautiful savannah with tall grasses like a prairie but with acacia trees, or well-kept farms of corn or milo (sorghum).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">With no air conditioning and the wind blasting all of us, and the driver's ever increasing commitment to louder and louder bad pop music coming from the radio, it was not my favorite road trip ever. I think this was true for everyone, except that it was worse for the students who really were packed in the bus like herrings. We rode with the windows down and our hair flying; the students tried their best to sleep in various contorted positions. When we stopped in Zeerust for lunch, I discovered that my entire front was bone dry but my entire backside was plastered to the seat with sweat. I was amazed the people in the back of the bus had not fused into one giant student.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We found Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers without any problems; in fact there were nice tourism-oriented signs directing us once we got close. The signs were a bit incongruous in the setting where sometimes it appeared that the signs were of higher-quality materials than the housing. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I have not stayed at a “backpacker’s hostel” since about 1991. I am not really a backpacker. My backpack is intended for short-term trips to peaceful libraries, or longer term trips to dog parks. Not to a hostel, which not by mere chance sounds to me a lot like “hostile.” This hostel was a beautiful jewel of a hostel – friendly owners, clean, comfortable beds, good breakfast, lunch, and dinner, a bar to buy bottled water and/or beer, and a “rec-room” outdoors, containing fusbol, a pool table, and a dart board. The students LOVED it. I, however, am clearly an old fart. There was constant extremely loud reggae music, the same album played over and over and over and over and over. I was ready to take some sort of guerilla action when one of the students persuaded them to switch to a different (reggae) album, and to turn it down a notch. So it was one party after another – but in this the hostel was not alone. All around, all night long, people were playing loud music and partying, all Friday and Saturday night. Truly, I have no idea how anyone old or young survives the weekends in Soweto.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Soweto (SOuth WEst TOwnship) is a really big, really poor city, not particularly better or worse than other equally large, impoverished cities. I think there are 2.5-5 million people there. It used to be a giant collection of single-sex dorms -- confusingly called hostels -- where the South Africans required migrant mine laborers to live. Then women and children started to move in. In the 1970's, 80's, and 90's it was the heart of the anti-apartheid movement, and certainly the heart of one of the most influential and successful youth protests in the world. Sowetan school children, most younger than high school age, actually themselves rose up to protest "Bantu" education (which was worse than no education at all -- and even 6 year olds got into the fight). The Afrikaaner police actually fired on and killed children who were protesting -- and not just once. For those of you who remember the news footage from those years, please know that Soweto is nothing like that now .... it is populated by the descendants of those activists, but is nowhere near as dangerous as it once was.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We saw more of Soweto on the four-hour bike tour the next morning, which began at 10:0 a.m., when the sultry sun had already climbed high into the sky. The palest of us suffered sunburns, despite thick layers of SPF45+ sunscreen. I rode in a combination golf cart/motorcycle driven by Lebo himself (the owner of the Backpacker’s Hostel). We stopped at a shebeen, an informal bar where a woman makes and sells sorghum beer from her home. The making of sorghum brew was once a quintessential wifely skill, and the drinking of the beer was the duty and pleasure of a lucky skillful husband. But the conquest of Southern Africa by Europeans followed by apartheid and then grinding entrenched poverty has taken this tradition and turned it into something sinister. In apartheid times, men would drink a foul brew so horrible that it was not even bottled, but served in boxes, to escape from the misery of the mines, miserably crowded hostels, and the pernicious effects of relentless overt and covert racist discrimination. In the present day there is a horrific relationship between alcohol abuse, sexual risk-taking, disrupted intimate relationships between men and women, and HIV/AIDS. I found the book “The Baboon Woman and a Bagful of Locusts” very informative in this regard, and of course I recommend “Love in the Time of AIDS.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">But, we were just touring, not thinking these sober thoughts, and so everyone gamely tried a batch of beer served in a gourd, and some were willing to taste the sour milk. Then we moved on to a very poor neighborhood, which clearly lacked clean water and had sewage running in the streets under the bicycle tires. Meanwhile, literally across the street there were half-built houses intended to have electricity, water, sewage treatment…..but there they stood, unfinished. The guides explained that while the ANC-dominated government has long promised healthy, safe housing for everyone, this goal is still not possible because of the cost, and the difficulty of destroying unsafe housing only after first relocating gigantic populations to safer housing. Also, according to Lebo, there was a plan for the people who moved into this better housing to pay for at least some of the costs of electricity, water, and sewage treatment, but of course the people living in the unhealthy houses across the street could ill afford to pay anything for these services – so exactly how this housing development was supposed to help the people in Soweto who most needed the help was very unclear. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The next part of the tour was more “uplifting” in that we saw the some more middle-class neighborhoods in Soweto. There were morning glories, four-o-clocks, roses, marigolds, and cosmos everywhere, and gazillions of children who all wanted a high five as we rode past. We eventually came to the Hector Pieterson memorial for the children killed in the Soweto uprisings of the 1970’s, and then after that to the homes of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, two Nobel laureates living close to each other in a single neighborhood in Soweto. Neither of them were in residence in either house during our visit, but the guide was knowledgeable and told us a lot about the two men. It struck me that there are a lot of great men in the anti-apartheid struggle and that the voices of women are not often included and certainly not venerated, a thought that would occur again at the otherwise wonderful Apartheid Museum in Joburg.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The bike ride ended with a meal at a small place where we were fed “bunny chow,” an unappetizing, nutritionally void and calorie-dense food that miraculously has not appeared in the U.S. despite these qualities. Bunny chow is a hollowed out loaf of white bread filled with French fries (“chips”), a fried egg, fried bologna, a slice of tomato, and ketchup. When asked to explain why it is called bunny chow, I was told that it was first brought to Soweto by “Asians” (people of Indian or Pakistani descent). I still remain confused regarding how this explanation relates to the question I had posed. The students all said it was “great,” so perhaps had I been pedaling, I would have appreciated bunny chow a bit more.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">After the bike ride, exhaustion reared its head and most students napped for at least a few hours. Some had to be dipped in vats of aloe, so sunburned were they, and several needed anti-inflammatories to help their entire bodies stop swelling up after the exposure to such heat and sun. No one suffered any long term effects, but I did spend quite a bit of time encouraging endless small sips of water and rest, and wondering if it was time to get out the oral rehydration salts (which taste foul but do work).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The rest of the evening was spent much as the first, so I will spare you.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The next morning we went to the Apartheid Museum, where we were all randomly assigned to “white” or “colored” or “black” and entered the museum in our proper doors. The museum is a compelling tribute to the remarkable struggles against apartheid, as well as a thorough documentation of the system of apartheid, its history, and its after-effects. We spent around 3-4 hours there, when our guide kept trying to rush us through in 1 hour and 45 minutes. The exhibit that included one of the giant armored vehicles used to subdue the people was literally frightening, while the newsreels from every decade literally brought tears to our eyes as each museum-goer met up with the reels that most reflected the time that we had first become aware of Apartheid. I kept thinking, why didn’t I know about this until 1989? What privilege, to remain in such ignorance and thus comfort!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The museum is extremely proud of its temporary Mandela exhibit, which will likely become permanent, but for me that was the least satisfying part. It documented Mandela’s life in excruciating detail, and was so complimentary as to be embarrassing. It used words from his own writings when possible, and those words were in a different color, as though I were reading a New Testament that has Jesus’ words in red. It is not that Mandela is not a great man – for surely he is – but I believe that every great person is supported by a community that feeds that greatness and deserves equal if not more acknowledgement. Reading between the lines, Mandela’s relationships with women and his respect for women probably place him up there (down there?) with Gandhi, showing that the struggle for equality among women and men has a long ways to go, even in South Africa which is justly proud of its constitutional commitments to civil, human, and social rights for all. There was no exhibit about how women managed to raise families while their husbands traveled to and from the mines, or about how women also resisted apartheid, or about how women raised brave children who fought Bantu education. There was almost no mention of females at all, except at the very end, when women’s organizations were mentioned briefly in a display about 1990’s political activism. I’m sure many compelling stories about women’s bravery, endurance, creativity, and perseverance during apartheid could also be told, and I hope that a South African writer will emerge to document their story with as much passion as the nation now devotes to Mandela and Tutu.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I will try to insert some photos of Soweto when next I get the chance.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I would love to read your reactions to this post, and any comments you have about Apartheid or Soweto.<o:p></o:p></div>Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-14518253664742545522011-01-23T01:16:00.000-08:002011-01-23T01:21:33.597-08:00Episode Ten: Vignettes with images<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The rainy season is in full swing. Apparently it’s swinging a little too much – we are getting more rain than usual, which the Ministry of Health believes will cause a mosquito population explosion. This in turn will probably lead to increased risk of malaria, so we are all taking mosquito-avoidance measures very seriously. Some of us have decided to take our anti-malarial prophylaxis as well, though we are all getting mixed advice on that score. Word on the street is that there is not yet a single confirmed case of malaria contracted in Gaborone, but on the other hand none of us wants to be the first case. I think that anti-malarials such as doxycycline are available for very little money; I am waiting for the students to report back regarding whether they can get the medicine for free at the campus health clinic.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">So, it has turned out to be an interesting time to live in Gaborone and teach about malaria – next week and the following two are our unit on malaria. The assignment for next week is to read the book “The Fever,” by Sonia Shah. I recommend it to everyone.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The plants are very excited about the rainy season. Everything is in bloom. For example, here is a picture of a beautiful flowering tree just inside one of the gates at the University of Botswana.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTAw0Pq1qa98PUrPkkK9UsfuWkGKF0dIJfrBE4LWc3OUMpePzlbbo9G0qf6ntJwsdsv8co1rAdaRZov_5d_cscKPHvhY9W6Rmr_I7jHAkUlU7jM0oSF9pzpEzfC0kjcXEj-aM4Zu0LvNvZ/s1600/Tree+in+Bloom+2+UB+Small+Gate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTAw0Pq1qa98PUrPkkK9UsfuWkGKF0dIJfrBE4LWc3OUMpePzlbbo9G0qf6ntJwsdsv8co1rAdaRZov_5d_cscKPHvhY9W6Rmr_I7jHAkUlU7jM0oSF9pzpEzfC0kjcXEj-aM4Zu0LvNvZ/s320/Tree+in+Bloom+2+UB+Small+Gate.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaks2BmfAuoQQBMya4bc94wZC_2tW1RdAwysSC1NEqlLwCl5wdlWQniCwHTsZgTHPCsPScIpzxMVnue2Z8ZyZoThnd6o1nXsU6J1tn5haw5OdJ5PWccP5HGFYw4UKDKpU9LUpiL7Ci9Lzh/s1600/Close+up+1+on+flowers+and+seed+pods+on+tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaks2BmfAuoQQBMya4bc94wZC_2tW1RdAwysSC1NEqlLwCl5wdlWQniCwHTsZgTHPCsPScIpzxMVnue2Z8ZyZoThnd6o1nXsU6J1tn5haw5OdJ5PWccP5HGFYw4UKDKpU9LUpiL7Ci9Lzh/s320/Close+up+1+on+flowers+and+seed+pods+on+tree.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWytf5IGdfvBRMFnsIyi2FhYCJybPv6CQuXukgpibzbeEsJzsM6PFgRNfyvb2AfEgUhxF5oMt8z8qCuZhEQLMkPvPTM1-IYMzZaYL5BF1qhuDp2JQgzPwke8KX0yvRZsUkxtFLZX8f-PBa/s1600/Trumpet+flower+close+up+2+on+tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWytf5IGdfvBRMFnsIyi2FhYCJybPv6CQuXukgpibzbeEsJzsM6PFgRNfyvb2AfEgUhxF5oMt8z8qCuZhEQLMkPvPTM1-IYMzZaYL5BF1qhuDp2JQgzPwke8KX0yvRZsUkxtFLZX8f-PBa/s320/Trumpet+flower+close+up+2+on+tree.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">The students are settling into their classes, including Setswana, which includes a combination of conversational Setswana and Setswana culture. They are learning a lot, and passing some of it on to me – for example, I had no idea that when one arrives, it is one’s job to greet first. So I had been rudely waiting for someone to greet me when I walk into a room, when instead it was my responsibility all along to ask everyone how they are doing, etc. I am dying to know how e-mail is handled – should I start each one with a preamble inquiring into the recipient’s well-being? If so, I have really been messing that up! But none of the emails I receive from any Motswana have begun with such a preamble, so perhaps I am doing fine. I have obtained a copy of a grammar written by a Peace Corps volunteer; the title of the grammar is "There is no word for grammar in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Setswana">Setswana</a>." I am glad the young people are taking Setswana and not this older person!!!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Here is an image of the New Student Centre, where the Office of International Education and Partnerships is housed. There are ATM machines inside, the book store, and lots of other interesting places like a room full of lockers and a meditation room. Some day there will be a food court inside, which is super duper exciting, but probably won’t happen while we are visiting.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NgsV14-SwZwWF2SkgLYqnxsUdiqaHG4j_1Rv_QXxmTlCLFRQwgpwHqpvJNNmkcaKN6wcGPQ_RHglXx6heBT3olUvGBTY9auBdxtW8icDGUi3KzyqNv8gNIbTyZ5VGvbtOdiU3VNMsgLF/s1600/View+of+New+Student+Center+UB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NgsV14-SwZwWF2SkgLYqnxsUdiqaHG4j_1Rv_QXxmTlCLFRQwgpwHqpvJNNmkcaKN6wcGPQ_RHglXx6heBT3olUvGBTY9auBdxtW8icDGUi3KzyqNv8gNIbTyZ5VGvbtOdiU3VNMsgLF/s320/View+of+New+Student+Center+UB.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Here is an image of the block of dormitories where many undergraduates live. It is called “Las Vegas,” ostensibly because it is so much fancier than the older dormitories. But one cannot help but wonder whether what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGM2Qr2LQjDajzwRSJh6jNGE7XlsEQsqGDosbItXGCRxjLU2VpOo7Gg2pwMheYhDnwt4y9SmxsXc7fC3iVKl7EA9Zr3lKL4Nk69OvCVJRSl4_BBwj8ziw2GE5RM7Jr0bHxNp_r6d8FEA53/s1600/Block+480+dormitories+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGM2Qr2LQjDajzwRSJh6jNGE7XlsEQsqGDosbItXGCRxjLU2VpOo7Gg2pwMheYhDnwt4y9SmxsXc7fC3iVKl7EA9Zr3lKL4Nk69OvCVJRSl4_BBwj8ziw2GE5RM7Jr0bHxNp_r6d8FEA53/s320/Block+480+dormitories+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">In our biology & public health course, we have 6 local people and 1 visiting spouse of a Fulbright scholar. Everyone worked in small groups this last week, and I was glad to see some of the U.S. students really going out of their way to work with the local people. Their colleges should be so proud of them! I am so grateful that 6 local women are willing to tolerate this crazy American professor.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">Here is an example of a public health message at the University -- I think it is an anti-drug message rather than an anti-love message, but to my mind neither drugs nor love sound too attractive. I wonder if there are many words for different kinds of love in Setswana.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqKkOpmSG6F26CgTCJIDtemgulZY2_dr_ysNM3LjTiWxTXCQkraUeXCsZ3VMh4Q-BntUgIg0JhzjsAwEloZbtfJhWwMGRn_fM9RY8GaGgz7cZErS7M-W6TBh_jf6SWrpmKcNabNX4Oyr7Q/s1600/Drugs+are+Like+Love.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqKkOpmSG6F26CgTCJIDtemgulZY2_dr_ysNM3LjTiWxTXCQkraUeXCsZ3VMh4Q-BntUgIg0JhzjsAwEloZbtfJhWwMGRn_fM9RY8GaGgz7cZErS7M-W6TBh_jf6SWrpmKcNabNX4Oyr7Q/s320/Drugs+are+Like+Love.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">I went shopping to the African Mall with my friends Melinda and Priscilla, where they bought beautiful traditional fabrics, called “German prints,” even though they are traditional. Now that I know what they look like I can see women wearing them, which is apparently a sign of allegiance to traditional culture. They are lively prints in beautiful almost jewel-tone colors of blue, purple, red, orange, green, and brown. I would like to get an “outfit” of them made before I leave. I would like to learn the history of these prints, to find out when they were first imported from Germany. I wish that I could remember how to sew simple things, because then I could bring home a bunch of different examples and at least make some throw pillows or edge some table cloths. It would be fun to have a bunch of Botswana pillows.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgotLTmk0E56XYykIz0Fj5LTVOej99T5lxXn0oS4D6G1d5RIiEa0k2Ne0l0PPuadzQn7DS8-KdVYWmu0MtIA4yiBzKMtRAUb4hyphenhyphennJQCQP_1SVpgkbusqaI94hAmJa0HtuC07MiH-7B2PXTn/s1600/Me+and+Melinda+at+African+Mall+with+Fabrics.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgotLTmk0E56XYykIz0Fj5LTVOej99T5lxXn0oS4D6G1d5RIiEa0k2Ne0l0PPuadzQn7DS8-KdVYWmu0MtIA4yiBzKMtRAUb4hyphenhyphennJQCQP_1SVpgkbusqaI94hAmJa0HtuC07MiH-7B2PXTn/s320/Me+and+Melinda+at+African+Mall+with+Fabrics.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 46.65pt;">We leave for Johannesburg this Friday, to go to the <a href="http://www.apartheidmuseum.org/">Apartheid Museum</a>, the <a href="http://www.origins.org.za/">Origins Centre,</a> and tour Soweto through <a href="http://www.sowetobackpackers.com/about-lebos.html">Lebo Backpackers</a>. Hard to imagine that I was part of a <a href="http://www.uwcusa.org/">group</a> that walked from Santa Fe to Las Vegas, NM to help raise awareness about apartheid, and next week I'll be in <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/5085450.stm">Soweto</a>. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shosholoza">Shosholoza</a>!!</div>Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-20904480880267595272011-01-16T06:41:00.000-08:002011-01-16T06:41:10.337-08:00Sweet Adelines Tag #2<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Visiting a friend, we sat inside her flat and watched monkeys playing outside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we were inside, and the monkeys were outside, we had the opportunity to know what it is like to be a primate in a zoo, being watched by another primate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was even a mother with an adventurous baby who couldn’t help but try to get as close to us as possible, despite the glass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was clear that my friend and I were the ones in the cage!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">P.S. I swam 15 Olympic-length laps today!<o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-36226221704131701052011-01-16T06:40:00.001-08:002011-01-16T06:40:31.728-08:00Episode Nine: Nothing Fancy<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Today I am finally trying to adapt to being here in a routine way, instead of treating each day as a new adventure.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I slept late and then began a day that might be similar to that of many expatriates living in Gaborone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I walked 15 minutes to the Riverwalk Mall, which features expensive shops selling fashionable clothes, Nikes, imported art and home decorations from Zimbabwe, and a range of restaurants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had a very nice large cappuccino at The Equatorial Café, and was chatted up by a Muslim man in full Southeast Asian garb, who told me many stories about his family, and was certainly a genial addition to the morning.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">After a couple of hours enjoying the sparkling water and the internet at the Café, I walked around the mall to see the less formal market that springs up on Saturdays.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Merchants – exclusively women – had set up stalls selling jewelry, hair ornaments, baskets, crafts, and clothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have been blessed with a temporary Ghanaian roommate, who lets me know the reasonable price range for these kinds of items, and I believe I was offered every item at double the going rate, so I bought nothing even though some of the baskets and carved wooden bowls really caught my eye.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Then I had lunch at Nando’s, which is a chain that serves chicken with various accompaniments, always including peri-peri sauce, which is sort of the Tabasco of southern Africa.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Next, I stopped by the pharmacy to discover “tea” comprised of ground ginger root, honey, and sugar, as well as oral rehydration salts flavored “orange.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think both of these items are aimed at the same sort of ailments, and as I have had several students with these complaints already, I plan to let them know about the pharmacy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next I went to the small grocery store, Pick & Pay, where I bought 8 or 9 different sauce packets, ranging from honey mustard chicken to Durban curry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then I walked back home and stopped by the gym that is about 5 minutes from my house (Gym Active).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whew, was it air-conditioned!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wonder if they would mind if I bought a membership and sat still in a corner reading a book?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And only 5 or 6 people were in there, and they have an Olympic sized pool.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am most interested in the pool, because treading water for an hour or so is very good for my bad knee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got the membership prices, then finished the short walk home, just in time for an absolute downpour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I made it just in time!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">It then proceeded to downpour regularly, for about 45 minutes to an hour, with 30 minutes between, for the rest of the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is even reasonably cool, a great blessing.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I have been able to use the internet pretty much all day long at home, ever since I had wireless installed through <a href="http://www.lenong.net/">www.lenong.net</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This access has revolutionized how comfortable I am here, and how efficacious I can be as a professor and administrator as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would not recommend the Mascom “dongle” to anyone who is thinking of coming here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(I would not recommend anything called a dongle to anyone for any purpose, let’s face it.) <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I made my roomie and I spaghetti with homemade sauce I made out of ground beef, onions, garlic, canned tomatoes, a real tomato, basil, marjoram, rosemary, some vegetable bouillon, and a green pepper, and we had bread and butter on the side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s too bad that she will be leaving Sunday for another trip to rural Botswana, but she will be back in a week or so for another short stay before she heads to another country to continue her graduate work.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I apologize for not posting more images of Botswana.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The problem is that I do not want to carry my camera with me most of the time, because it is reasonably heavy and also it is very intrusive to be the person snapping photos left and right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I will try to take some pictures this next week, I <b>promise</b>. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I am ripening a large Yucatan-esque avocado and saving a $0.50 lemon to make guacamole tomorrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Wish me luck!<o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-59219913772755943402011-01-08T08:42:00.000-08:002011-01-08T08:42:00.119-08:00Episode 8: Peaceful Sleep, or DOOM!<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Like me, you might be under the impression that “Peaceful Sleep” is the opposite of “DOOM!”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not here in Botswana, you silly American Abroad!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I learned ("learnt!") this disconcerting concept when I decided a trip to the pharmacy was finally warranted for the ever-increasing red spots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After consulting several helpful ex-pats, I learned that they probably are caused by mosquitos even though they look different from any mosquito bites I had ever had before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The solution used by locals is insecticide, applied directly to your body or in coils or plug-in diffusers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much to my surprise, the two competing brands are “Peaceful Sleep” and “DOOM!”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">I decided to go with DOOM! because Peaceful Sleep sounds too much like somebody besides the mosquitos just died.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Perhaps the conflation of rest and catastrophe can help provide some insight into why buildings on campus – and indeed in my University-owned housing – are numbered using some system other than actual ordering objects in a logical manner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For example, if I leave my townhouse and turn right to walk down the road, I encounter Number 32 before I get to Numbers 21, 22, 23, and 24.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Similarly, my office is in Block 230, but it is not particularly close to anything I can find that is called “Block 229” or “Block 231.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps these are over near 472 or 17.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If 472 and 17 exist at all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps they are having a peaceful sleep, or have encountered doom.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This confusion is compounded by an almost total lack of street signs, and one other curiosity, which I like to think of as map avoidance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As someone with absolutely no sense of direction whatsoever, I do have some sympathy for this position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nevertheless, I would gladly pay an extra month’s rent for a good map of Gaborone or even just the University campus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of my new Fulbright friends says that there is no word for “map” in Setswana.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I do not know if that is true, but I do know that my Batswana hosts look very dismayed when I ask for a map.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have incredible spatial reasoning and memory, navigating from landmarks, and also no worries at all about finding a destination despite not knowing exactly where it is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One can always ask for help, or just walk a little further down the road to look to see if there is a locked gate preventing that way, or a landmark visible that other way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think they are very tired of being asked for maps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I also think that a cartographer could make a killing selling a really good map of Gaborone or even just the University.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps the government doesn’t want any good maps of Gabz or the University out there, as some kind of security measure:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>DOOM! to anyone who dares to survey and sketch?<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Peaceful sleep (though not the permanent kind) to you, my friends!<o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-76787210285104458832011-01-05T11:43:00.000-08:002011-01-05T11:43:29.123-08:00Episode 7: Too tired for a catchy title<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">January 5, 2011<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Kudos to the superb staff at the University of Botswana Office of International Education and Programs for meeting, greeting, welcoming, and shuttling over 50 international students today, and for extraordinary improvisation under stressful circumstances! All 23 of “my” students in the ACM program are here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have all had pizza.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have a flat place with mattress to sleep.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have met Cha and David, two local undergraduates who will help them for the next two weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And every single one was in good humor despite plenty of opportunities to be grumpy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some of them have most of their luggage; others have a sheet to sleep on for the night and are trusting in luggage delivery tomorrow (I do believe it will work out just fine).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every single one of them was a gentleman or lady, despite difficult circumstances, for example they distributed the few bed sheets there were first and foremost to the ones who had the least luggage!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m so proud to get to be their faculty director.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Orientation begins tomorrow at 9, but they will be taken to a cafeteria for breakfast in the morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then on we go! Classes to begin the 10<sup>th</sup>. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I hope that I will get to have time to get a little orientation for me in tomorrow….perhaps a meeting with Dr. Sabone, my Head of Department in the Faculty of Nursing (nursing! How exciting!).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Today I was told that I should be a stand-up comic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I told them, what do you think I am already, I teach five hours/day back home, to the same students!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I’m sorry that this post is not so funny – I’m just exhausted but wanted any friends & family of the ACM crowd to know that we are all here.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Here is my first safari photo, lions or perhaps cheetahs but certainly not vultures or hyenas at a feed….<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid5xNVU8D5YWyN2XLaatyIn2PVM3MD-WfSt27xkr1BgMbJTNaxZL04stddtukA3FX-Wh3GI14tDShjYFMqELw_P_sQakXc-1UaJ4lMpmfLVSx7_hHlI_RS2E1bz7tVOTKzvWJ8z1Ati5mf/s1600/young+un%2527s+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid5xNVU8D5YWyN2XLaatyIn2PVM3MD-WfSt27xkr1BgMbJTNaxZL04stddtukA3FX-Wh3GI14tDShjYFMqELw_P_sQakXc-1UaJ4lMpmfLVSx7_hHlI_RS2E1bz7tVOTKzvWJ8z1Ati5mf/s320/young+un%2527s+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0J4uzFGNePND1erIgGX_CV4sgs__Jx7ePKM2jHMtdMQx5ZxN4C-TFuRuWZZC1IZGM-uBRC04w-SFSX_xOC_DHfakx1T1A9EMaxGnyj_hk_hTTQHtQpgnctxpg02X-4gLD2hi9GS_UsLUd/s1600/young+%2527uns+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0J4uzFGNePND1erIgGX_CV4sgs__Jx7ePKM2jHMtdMQx5ZxN4C-TFuRuWZZC1IZGM-uBRC04w-SFSX_xOC_DHfakx1T1A9EMaxGnyj_hk_hTTQHtQpgnctxpg02X-4gLD2hi9GS_UsLUd/s320/young+%2527uns+1.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">And here is the nicest room in my “flat,” which is actually a townhouse. The rest is much much plainer, but they do go in for plush, comfy living room furniture! Very nice.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZmCH4suT4SYrMBqUANBGLM5ohJlvndl-tv2sbZf0vR84blLCqD4cnoCvGj3qLOIjEeAubDkDszfP7T1ZYKL_kdpEcAJLlcNdaqW7mKOb90pTtEuEfyQgCR7dZqCh4IuIrKKEKqnBr5_yo/s1600/house+interior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZmCH4suT4SYrMBqUANBGLM5ohJlvndl-tv2sbZf0vR84blLCqD4cnoCvGj3qLOIjEeAubDkDszfP7T1ZYKL_kdpEcAJLlcNdaqW7mKOb90pTtEuEfyQgCR7dZqCh4IuIrKKEKqnBr5_yo/s320/house+interior.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-41174219338261905882011-01-03T00:28:00.000-08:002011-01-03T00:28:36.280-08:00Episode Six: The luggage, the ditch, and the wardrobes.<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">January 2, 2011<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Never fear, the luggage arrived before I did.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As it flew by itself and did not have a means to pay, it apparently arrived for free – I would have had to pay upwards of $200 for the kilos above 30, had it traveled with me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Parting (with one’s luggage temporarily) is such sweet sorrow (apologies to poets everywhere).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So sorry that it caused Amanda so much grief!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Caveat flyer:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>pack extra underwear, something to sleep in, and a change of clothes in your carry-on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is rare for all luggage to arrive in Gaborone at the same time as the particular passengers who were originally associated with that specific luggage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You are very likely to arrive with someone’s checked luggage, just not necessarily your own.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That will arrive on some other flight, perhaps sooner than you, perhaps later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thus it all works out in the end, just like a Mma Ramotswe story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just have your own “end” covered with some extra clothes in your carry-on!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Your carry-ons must not weigh too much, so you might have to unpack them and carry multiple lighter bags rather than two heavy ones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This calculus confuses me but it works for South Africa Air Express.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Best to say Thank You and not ask too many questions.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Today I learned that it might or might not be the rainy season.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It rained all of last night, accompanied by a cozy chorus of crickets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It isn’t that hot, but holy cow is it humid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It rained much of this morning as well, but is not raining now that it is evening.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> I also learned how to install a cell phone’s sim card, activate it, and text the United States (dial 001, not just 1, for the country code).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found out that “follow the road straight” in Botswana does not mean “go straight,” it means follow the road especially if it curves dramatically and nevermind if the hand-drawn map shows the road being straight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, key landmarks such as “the clinic” are readily apparent if you have Setswana eyes, but alas not so obvious with my U.S. American ones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nevertheless, the important thing is to keep strolling, not too far, not very fast, only ten minutes in the end, and you will indeed arrive at your destination, in this case the touristy Riverwalk mall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ditches in Botswana are shallow or entirely lacking, and there are safe paths to walk along the side of the road, sort of like sidewalks but without the bother of cement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And even if it rains, buy the groceries you need because chances are a taxi driver will be happy to give a ride for P20 ($3.50).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wait staff are ever-ready with the phone numbers of taxi drivers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And in case any of you worried that I might miss out on seeing Tron as I also missed out in the 80’s, never you fear, it’s playing every night this week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(A sign of the film’s greatness?)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Almost everything has been unpacked and stowed in one of my capacious wardrobes (closets).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Batswana must value closet space, as the townhouse cannot be characterized as full of anything, except that it is full of otherwise empty closets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The kitchen is not really organized yet, but I guess another day should put that in order, too. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still no internet at home, and it may or may not be a city holiday or a federal holiday through the 4<sup>th</sup> or possibly the 5<sup>th</sup>, so it may take a few more days for the Mascom store to be open so that someone can show me how to use the mysterious USB modem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve got the software installed, but I think that I have to pay some money to get the network activated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can’t wait to activate it so that I can “chat” with home in the evenings, when it is still morning or early afternoon in the U.S..<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did call home for exactly 38 seconds, and home called me for 1 minute 42 seconds, but I have not figured out how to tell how much of the P60 phone credits that actually cost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I guess if I stop being able to use the phone, I’ll know that it cost too much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think texts are very cheap, so text me if you dare!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Amanda has the number.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As soon as I have a chance to go to the Equatorial Café to use the wireless and upload this blog, I will also send the number to all of the ACM-Botswana students, so that they will know how to contact me during their travels.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Cheers!<o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-35257457536432972322011-01-03T00:24:00.000-08:002011-01-03T00:24:17.584-08:00Sweet Adelines Tag #1January 1, 2011<br />
<br />
<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal"> For those readers who do not sing Barbershop, a “tag” is a musical bit added to the end of a song, for the purpose of both prolonging and heightening the emotional content of the performance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also use tags to eke out several more opportunities to show off vocal skills.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> These Blog Tags are for the Velvet Hills Show Chorus, though I hope that you will all find them amusing.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Ladies!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I sat in the airport hotel in Johannesburg, eating dinner while pondering the missing luggage, what song should come over the audio but “When You Wish Upon a Star.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was New Year’s Eve, I was in Africa, I was eating chicken &<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>butternut squash pasta and sipping a South African white.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To think how I started out in a little town in Nebraska, the weird kid who liked to read & sing …. and look where I ended up!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This year Rome and Botswana, next year Beijing and (fingers crossed) France….and of course Houston.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> And now we have the photos of the adventurous PIB. Here she is will all the luggage.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34tw87W7QcrOCjwUr3dpc3Vs-4v-Tm-T1lyalJt0POz3g6zntodQg_Dg2XOxkKbjifdEL5HIXkCBpCpKPzLY8SpTSH0vxRcPcigXKSJUgKYFifbpX4G-4rUy1K8hQLNTLAi6uR2I5pTxU/s1600/IMG_0812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34tw87W7QcrOCjwUr3dpc3Vs-4v-Tm-T1lyalJt0POz3g6zntodQg_Dg2XOxkKbjifdEL5HIXkCBpCpKPzLY8SpTSH0vxRcPcigXKSJUgKYFifbpX4G-4rUy1K8hQLNTLAi6uR2I5pTxU/s320/IMG_0812.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> But she had to slim down quite a bit in order to fit in "economy stowage," so here she is ready to travel. She did so well! Must have been all that jumping around on the risers.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitpt1r8wqj8LE0aLnEVO784JZ6gHZJho-Tvhb_Nh9v82xuxNZtilsMP6rT5v_qZ8ZQxMrkRqGMIXXKEhUOttVgfrLHlQweMNn69AjUru7hAsgZ-K3RYAx22ErbzVb3nnpavXAjdz31YGmj/s1600/IMG_0813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitpt1r8wqj8LE0aLnEVO784JZ6gHZJho-Tvhb_Nh9v82xuxNZtilsMP6rT5v_qZ8ZQxMrkRqGMIXXKEhUOttVgfrLHlQweMNn69AjUru7hAsgZ-K3RYAx22ErbzVb3nnpavXAjdz31YGmj/s320/IMG_0813.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Never fear, she has managed to regain her original beauty perfectly and is on the dining room table, resting!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-71998232761161819202011-01-01T02:07:00.000-08:002011-01-01T02:07:07.397-08:00Episode five: in which my luggage and I have independent adventures<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;">Greetings and Happy New Year from Johannesburg, South Africa!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;">After quite a few conversations with Delta as well as conversations between them and the ACM, I was allowed to board the flight to Atlanta, and the flight to Johannesburg, as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hip-hip-hooray!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now that I am in South Africa, no one cares a whit that I do not have a visa to stay in Botswana longer than 90 days, but Delta was certainly concerned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hope that next year’s Director has a visa ahead of time, to satisfy U.S. American procedures. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And thanks to the red-jacketed Delta representative who ultimately decided that “<b>should</b> have a visa” is different from “<b>MUST</b> have a visa” and let me leave Colorado.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Thank goodness the computer screen said "should."</span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;">To add pula (blessings), I flew the entire 16 hours in a 3-seat row all by myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I must have slept at least 10 hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A father with very good humor boarded the plane with his partner and their young infant; to a round of applause he passed our earplugs to everyone seated nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now that’s class.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> There were actually two families with young infants on the flight, and at customs, the South Africans insisted that the mothers with babies skip to the very front of the line. Again, how classy!</span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;">The airport in Joburg was lovely, with hardly any other flights in evidence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was just me, the two young couples with infants, and the retirees, all on their dream safari vacations. Everything went perfectly except that my checked luggage did not arrive with me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> The South African Delta sales representative was very impressed with the fact that the luggage contained all of my travel destinations, dates, and contact numbers and was also labeled properly with my jaunty red luggage tags. </span>My bright orange luggage is rather striking, so I really could tell that it did not arrive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> One of the nicest Delta employees teased me quite a bit, saying that I really should be more careful to have easily-identified luggage. And even though I was the very last DL200 passenger to leave the baggage area, Mr. Tia from the hotel had waited all that time and took me directly to the hotel.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;">Amanda stayed up all night New Year’s Eve and was ultimately able to ascertain that Delta believes that my luggage will arrive in Gaborone before I will, this morning at 10:30.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is already almost noon, so perhaps my luggage is already enjoying Setswana hospitality. Thank you Amanda. I promise I'll make it up to you!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;">The South African landscape visible as the flight lands is stunning – it looks like paradise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Many pula to all of you for this new year. </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-18775800890325942092010-12-28T16:31:00.000-08:002010-12-28T16:31:16.161-08:00Episode Four: poinsettias the size of treesAlmost time to go. I meant to post this image before Christmas but couldn't quite get it up.<br />
<br />
Anyway, when I was in Botswana in July, I saw poinsettias - the size of TREES! Imagine how sad beautiful U.S. holiday altars must look to visitors from Botswana.<br />
<br />
Mysteriously I did not take a photograph of any of the actual trees, but I did take this picture. It shows the inside of the <a href="http://www.sos.org.bw/">SOS Children's Village</a> and the "family tree" made by the kids who go to pre-school and/or live there. It is a poinsettia tree!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHo-28yNgq7xgW8Y3JXPC-wGKFO2Qen1qKGS-zXhZQJaXdDtDCZLJsLsCYBSakhwVizrzwFluVlyR1jL_xxpSN5JnEf-aTpWttCkIjqGvhoDQFYDvvqxYeK_SBapmYH4HhkrL26mEOSKn3/s1600/sos+family+tree+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHo-28yNgq7xgW8Y3JXPC-wGKFO2Qen1qKGS-zXhZQJaXdDtDCZLJsLsCYBSakhwVizrzwFluVlyR1jL_xxpSN5JnEf-aTpWttCkIjqGvhoDQFYDvvqxYeK_SBapmYH4HhkrL26mEOSKn3/s320/sos+family+tree+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I hope to write to you next from Botswana.Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-44845849722721010952010-12-16T11:50:00.000-08:002010-12-16T11:50:19.962-08:00Episode three: malaria, tuberculosis, and HIV/AIDS<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">I’m getting my lectures and other materials together, so I thought that it might be nice to tell you a little about the focus of the course I will be teaching, which is called “The Biology and Public Health of Malaria, Tuberculosis, and HIV/AIDS.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Why those three infectious diseases?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I chose them because they remain significant causes of mortality despite the fact that every single one is preventable, and two of them can be cured.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also chose them because social categories such as gender, race, and socioeconomic status have strong effects on both the risk of contracting one of these illnesses and also the risk of dying as a result. Additionally I’m a microbiologist and so I chose them for teaching purposes, because one of them is caused by a bacterium (<i>Mycobacterium</i> <i>tuberculosis</i>), another by a virus (Human Immunodeficiency Virus), and the third by a eukaryotic parasite (<i>Plasmodium</i> species). <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It is also very interesting that despite the importance of these infections and concentrated research effort, there is no immunization series that can effectively protect children or adults from any of these agents.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Some studies indicate that an immunization called <a href="http://www.cdc.gov/tb/publications/factsheets/prevention/BCG.htm">BCG</a> can protect young children from some forms of severe tuberculosis early in their lives, but this protection does not protect immunized people later in life and can complicate diagnosis of tuberculosis, so it is not used in low-prevalence countries such as the U.S.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, these three infectious agents have taught us how little we understand the human immune system, which has more connections among cells than are found in the whole nervous system!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even if we had effective immunizations, we might not have the political will to build the human and physical infrastructure needed to distribute and administer the immunizations where they are most needed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Certainly the infrastructure to store and administer affordable antimicrobials is not in place, even though those antimicrobials exist.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I also plan to use these diseases to teach about <a href="http://evolution.berkeley.edu/evosite/evo101/index.shtml">evolution</a>, because all three infectious agents have evolved in response to our attempts to treat them, and in the case of malaria and tuberculosis, we humans have evolved in response to their attempts to infect us. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">The <a href="http://www.who.int/en">World Health Organizatio</a>n likes to explain the causes of mortality by scaling everyone who died in a given year to 1,000 people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the most recent available data (2004), the top ten causes of mortality in low income countries were:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Lower respiratory disease (112/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Coronary heart disease (94/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Diarrhoeal disease (69/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>HIV/AIDS (57/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Stroke (56/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">6.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (36/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">7.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Tuberculosis (35/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">8.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Neonatal infections (34/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">9.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Malaria (33/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">10.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Prematurity and low birth weight (32/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Numbers 1, 3, 4, 7, 8, and 9 are directly caused by infectious disease, while infectious disease in a mother can contribute substantially to number 10, too. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">For the world considered as a whole, the list looks like this:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Coronary heart disease<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(122/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Stroke (97/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Lower respiratory infections (71/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (51/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Diarrhoeal diseases (37/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">6.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>HIV/AIDS (35/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">7.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Tuberculosis (25/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">8.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Trachea, bronchus, lung cancers (23/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">9.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Road traffic accidents (22/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">10.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Prematurity and low birth weight (20/1000)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Even though malaria isn’t listed, it is a significant contributor to #10.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Malaria is also a major downer for economic prosperity – people so sick they can’t get out of bed don’t generate as much income or wealth as healthy people.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">In Botswana, which by some measures is a middle-income country, HIV/AIDS is the #1 cause of over-all mortality, while tuberculosis is #4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For children under 5 in Botswana, HIV/AIDS<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>is the #2 cause of death, while malaria is #4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tuberculosis is the most common “opportunistic infection” affecting HIV+ people worldwide, so there is a connection between deaths from TB and HIV/AIDS, with some difficulty in separating the two in some cases. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is exciting that the over-all crude death rate in Botswana has fallen substantially from about 32/1000 in 2003 to about 8.5/1000, very close to the U.S. death rate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is due in no small part to Botswana’s enviable medical infrastructure and the availability of anti-HIV medications (antiretrovirals, or <a href="http://www.tac.org.za/community/">ARV</a>s) and antibiotics to treat tuberculosis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 16px;">Check out this <a href="http://www.gapminder.org/world/#$majorMode=chart$is;shi=t;ly=2003;lb=f;il=t;fs=11;al=30;stl=t;st=t;nsl=t;se=t$wst;tts=C$ts;sp=6;ti=2007$zpv;v=1$inc_x;mmid=XCOORDS;iid=phAwcNAVuyj1jiMAkmq1iMg;by=ind$inc_y;mmid=YCOORDS;iid=phAwcNAVuyj2tPLxKvvnNPA;by=ind$inc_s;uniValue=8.21;iid=phAwcNAVuyj0XOoBL_n5tAQ;by=ind$inc_c;uniValue=255;gid=CATID0;iid=pyj6tScZqmEfbZyl0qjbiRQ;by=grp$map_x;scale=log;dataMin=488;dataMax=51771$map_y;scale=lin;dataMin=31;dataMax=82$map_s;sma=49;smi=4.31$cd;bd=0$inds=i28_l001965ajaK;">animation</a> showing the data regarding the rise, fall, and rise of health in Botswana. Public health measures WORK!!</span></div><!--StartFragment--><!--EndFragment--> <div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Infectious disease remains an important cause of death worldwide, and is likely both caused by social inequality and a contributor to the perpetuation of that inequality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People interested in the impacts of infectious disease on development might want to check out <a href="http://gapminder.org/">gapminder.org</a> and look at under-5 child mortality as one of the variables. There is also a <a href="http://www.gapminder.org/world/#$majorMode=map$is;shi=t;ly=2003;lb=f;il=t;fs=11;al=30;stl=f;st=f;nsl=t;se=t$wst;tts=C$ts;sp=10;ti=2007$zpv;v=0$inc_x;mmid=XCOORDS;iid=phAwcNAVuyj1jiMAkmq1iMg;by=const$inc_y;mmid=YCOORDS;iid=pyj6tScZqmEfbZyl0qjbiRQ;by=const$inc_s;uniValue=8.21;iid=pyj6tScZqmEe1GaiYJX2qGA;by=ind$inc_c;uniValue=255;gid=CATID0;iid=pyj6tScZqmEfbZyl0qjbiRQ;by=ind$map_s;sma=49;smi=2.65$map_c;scale=lin$cd;bd=0$inds=;example=4">great visual summary</a> of HIV infection data on that same site.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Lest I end with all gloom and doom, it is worth pointing out that this has been a year with lots of good news on the infectious disease front, too, so stay tuned. And cheers to all the microbiologists out there devoting their lives to making the world a safer place.<o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-80130729723834494452010-12-11T17:41:00.000-08:002010-12-11T17:42:29.254-08:00Episode two: Preparations so far<div style="text-align: center;">The University of Botswana library, July 2008:</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkmZv7oCx-YcTMvHnpwcuhU-hGJrrlR6Fidju-jWgaxYuh9k9ESROpHWdWAgFnnTfEc813WYoQH5TV2WuN324FiFZbTOICpSb_Y8GpHT6U31sxID3WSD60qHAwiDwK-S8WXOXTAf7J4zi3/s1600/Picture+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkmZv7oCx-YcTMvHnpwcuhU-hGJrrlR6Fidju-jWgaxYuh9k9ESROpHWdWAgFnnTfEc813WYoQH5TV2WuN324FiFZbTOICpSb_Y8GpHT6U31sxID3WSD60qHAwiDwK-S8WXOXTAf7J4zi3/s320/Picture+022.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">I feel busier than an elf in Santa’s shop. I have assembled a list of advice regarding what to bring along, including what attitude to tuck into my carry-ons. This advice comes from all manner of helpful people, such as a UB visiting professor from Canada, past ACM faculty directors, <a href="http://www.iie.org/fulbright">Fulbright</a> scholars, <a href="http://www.asm.org/index.php/international/international-affairs.html">American Society for Microbiology</a> volunteers, and the <a href="http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/bhp/">Botswana Harvard AIDS Institute Partnership for HIV Research and Education</a>. I found a blog written by a Fulbright scholar particularly helpful, so I would like this post to be similarly helpful to others who stumble across it while planning to live in Botswana themselves.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">One thing I’m not doing is running around getting a gazillion travel immunizations. The first time I went to Botswana, in 2008, I got a whole bunch of shots. This time I know better, so I just want a seasonal flu shot, a <a href="http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/content/in-the-news/measles.aspx">measles</a> booster, and some prophylactic anti-malarials for the safari up in the <a href="http://www.okavango-delta.net/">Okavango Delta</a> (wetlands). The water in Gaborone is very safe. I have visited twice and always just drank water out of the tap, used tap water to brush my teeth, etc. I did get a touch of traveller’s intestinal discomfort, but nothing to write home about (though I am a <i><a href="http://rparticle.web-p.cisti.nrc.ca/rparticle/AbstractTemplateServlet?calyLang=eng&journal=cjm&volume=54&year=2008&issue=10&msno=w08-075">Salmonella</a></i> biologist, so I would, in fact, write home about anything intestinally notable!).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So far, I am planning to bring….<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">1.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Too many electronics<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">a.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>A PC laptop for my office in the Faculty of Nursing. The PC is loaded with all electronic documents needed to administer the ACM Study Abroad program.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">b.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>My Mac laptop for use at home, via Mascom wireless <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">c.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>My Kindle, because books are scarce and too heavy to bring along<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">d.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>My iPad, to use for teaching (Airsketch! Keynote!)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">e.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>A portable LED projector<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">f.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Extra cables for the assorted electronics to connect to each other and to power.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">g.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Two U.S. surge protectors/strips to go with two power converters (220 to 110).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">h.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Several cell phones with Botswana sim cards (provided by my employer ACM).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">i.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>A cooling gel pad for the laptops – it’s going to be hot!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">j.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>A lock for the laptop at home.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">2.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>An official letter explaining that the electronics are for educational purposes and must be returned to the U.S. after my visit. (We'll see how much I get charged for importing all that stuff.)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">3.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>A neck support pillow for better sleeping on the planes.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">4.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Spray-on sunscreen (for the places I can’t reach!).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">5.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Two padlocks in case I join a gym or need to put a lock on a closet or … who knows.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">6.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Umbrella for sun and rain.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">7.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Swimming suit for trip to Johannesburg and possibly for local gym or hotel pool membership.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">8.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>For teaching, nicer summer clothes than I ever wear in the U.S.. I will still be under-dressed, I’m sure, but at least I will try.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">9.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> . </span>Lots of passport photos, notarized copies of my graduate diploma, and a copy of my appointment letter.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">10 <span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>For sleeping in an apartment without air conditioning: a “chillow” and a hotflash pillow.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">11. Three cooling bandanas (filled with polymer that can be filled with water).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">12. Extra pair of glasses and glasses case.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">13. <span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>One warm sweater and one warm fleece; supposedly I will feel cold in April/May. I guess I’ll update you on that one!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">14. <span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>As few copies of teaching books as possible.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">15. A wooden backscratcher (living alone!)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">16. A few travel-to-Botswana/Namibia/South Africa guides.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">17. <span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Assorted over-the-counter meds that might not be available in Botswana, such as miconazole, hydrocortisone cream, aloe sunburn cream, baby aspirin.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">18. A lightweight crocheted shawl in case I ever have to meet any dikgosi and have to cover my shoulders with an extra layer.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">19.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>A Visa credit card (not Mastercard or Discover or any other type).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">20.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Safari related items for going to the <a href="http://www.botswanatourism.co.bw/attractions/central_kalahari_game_reserve.html">Central Kalahari Game Reserve</a> and the Okavango Delta in late February/early March<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">a.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Raincoat</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">b.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Tevos<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">c.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Walking/tennis shoes<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">d.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Safari pants that can be unzipped into shorts<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">e.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Traveljohns (if you don’t know what these are, you should look them up!)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">f.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Similarly, a GoGirl<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">g.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Head lamp with extra batteries<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">h.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Camera with extra batteries<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">i.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Anti-malarial (haven’t decided which one yet)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">j.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Epi pen … plan to assemble a travel first-aid kit for the safari once I have arrived. I will also buy DEET-containing bug spray once I am there.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">k.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Binoculars<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">l. Rain-proof stuff sacks and duffel bags</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As far as the attitude to pack… the experience of any given faculty visitor appears to be very specific to their living situation and the department in which they are visiting. The plan appears to be “expect the unexpected;” as <a href="http://www.velvethills.org/">Velvet Hills</a> sometimes sings: “fle-e-ex-i-bi-li-ty…” Undoubtedly there will be expected problems (collecting luggage in Jo’burg to stay overnight at <a href="http://www.airportgrand.co.za/">airport Hilton</a>, checking in again on New Year’s Day to fly to Gaborone, negotiating about any extra luggage or weight, getting e-mail set up from home, learning how to buy local cell phone service....). <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The unexpected problems are the ones that demand the very most patience and good humor, so all I can say is, wish me luck! <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
P.S. I've looked around and most estimates for shipping to Botswana are >$300 for 10 lbs of books....so I may have to pay overage charges for extra luggage of teaching-related books. We'll see.</div>Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3504269733681459498.post-43145387277694561472010-12-09T17:24:00.000-08:002010-12-09T17:24:46.030-08:00Episode one: Coals to Newcastle?<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Greetings (Dumelang)!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Welcome to my blog about living, teaching, and traveling in <a href="http://www.gov.bw/">Botswana</a> with twenty three students enrolled at one of the liberal arts colleges that belong to the <a href="http://www.acm.edu/">Associated Colleges of the Midwest</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am usually an associate professor of biology at <a href="http://www.coloradocollege.edu/">Colorado College</a>, but starting soon I will be the visiting faculty director of the ACM Study Abroad Program in Botswana.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> This position is made possible through a collaboration between ACM and the University of Botswana, through the </span><a href="http://www.ub.bw/info.cfm?pid=637">Office of International Education and Partnerships</a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">. </span>I have visited Botswana twice, but only for <a href="http://www.ciee.org/ifds/">brief periods of time</a>.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Why go to <a href="http://www.ciee.org/ifds/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;">Botswana</span></a>?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ostensibly, I am going there to teach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Specifically, I will teach a course on the biology and public health of <a href="http://www.who.int/topics/malaria/en/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;">malaria</span></a>, <a href="http://www.who.int/topics/tuberculosis/en/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;">tuberculosis</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;">,</span> and <a href="http://www.who.int/en/">HIV/AIDS</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Surely there could be no clearer example of “bringing coals to Newcastle” – my expertise in these subjects pales in comparison to the <a href="http://www.unaids.org/en/default.asp">expertise</a> of healthcare providers, microbiologists, and lay people who have lived their entire lives in sub-Saharan Africa.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fortunately, I am aware that it is something of a fiction that I am going there to teach – while I will teach a course and direct some undergraduate independent study projects, I am clearly going to Botswana to learn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">And there are plenty of things to learn about. For example, did you know that Botswana has almost never been at war?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Meanwhile, the U.S. has been at war for most of my lifetime, and indeed for majority of the years of its history.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="http://www.mccallsmith.com/botswana.htm">Books for tourists and other non-Africans</a> make much of various conflict-avoidant cultural traditions in Botswana, as do <a href="http://www.thelancet.com/journals/lancet/article/PIIS0140-6736(10)61043-4/fulltext">books Motswana write about themselves.</a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One celebrated Setswana way to resolve conflicts is to find a solution that leaves everyone reasonably happy, honor intact, rather than winner-takes-all strategies such as simple majority voting. One wonders what a faculty meeting organized around these principles would be like, let alone an entire country!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I’m also very excited to learn from my colleagues at the <a href="http://www.ub.bw/learning_faculties.cfm?pid=896"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;">Faculty of Nursing</span></a>. Many Batswana, certainly including most nurses, see<a href="http://www.tac.org.za/community/"> health as a human right</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This idea is an alien concept throughout most of the U.S..<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How does this view affect policy decisions, or day-to-day interactions between clients and healthcare providers? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With few exceptions, I have almost no personal experience with serious illnesses among people “in the prime of life.” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is, frankly, hard to imagine – even though I have read so very many books about just this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nurses in Botswana have also been at the forefront of devising practical methods for <a href="http://www.gov.bw/en/Ministries--Authorities/Ministries/Ministry-of-Local-Government-MLG1/Local-Authorities/Kweneng-District-Council/Services/PMTCT/">preventing mother-to-child transmission</a> of HIV in Botswana, and have disseminated those methods to other countries. I look forward to learning more about how these practices and policies have come about, and about their benefits and limitations.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I can only hope that the Batswana I meet will graciously accept my coal, teach me Setswana ways of knowing, and enable me to discover some actual gifts to leave behind in gratitude.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hxyu2Z7SOFabgQkbvI408eoh36T3Wrq-7OMUdhxF34DNTDc5vkgtk_l92K3UgjAycyP-mSCj0sAFKdk_locWvQRkgyNUicp5Sf7SewGjvlN6tCGLt5Yk7wB1sJ0jrQUr4tY8hrL81DNy/s1600/Picture+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hxyu2Z7SOFabgQkbvI408eoh36T3Wrq-7OMUdhxF34DNTDc5vkgtk_l92K3UgjAycyP-mSCj0sAFKdk_locWvQRkgyNUicp5Sf7SewGjvlN6tCGLt5Yk7wB1sJ0jrQUr4tY8hrL81DNy/s320/Picture+023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A view at the University of Botswana, July 2008</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><!--EndFragment-->Phoebe or Candi, depending!http://www.blogger.com/profile/16509450658338106400noreply@blogger.com0